Lure: A Coastal Experience in the Heart of Midtown
written by Bre Humphries | photography courtesy of Lure
Walking into Lure is a bit like rolling your windows down when you’ve driven till the map turns blue. It’s notexactly that salty, musty scent of the sea that greets you, but rather the intoxicating aroma of her fruits. Still, the effects are the same. You can’t help but breathe deeply in eager anticipation of the coastal experience that awaits.
Open since 2012 in Midtown, Lure reels in diners with nautical décor that calls to mind a favorite fishhouse and a stately ship all at once. For a special treat, request a seat on the year-round patio, enclosed and heated in warmer months.
The menu skews classic American seafood (think New England clam chowder, Louisiana catfish, Atlantic Coast oysters), but there are influences from oceans across the globe as well — for instance, steamed mussels reminiscent of the Mediterranean, swimming in a sauce of Fresno chilis, garlic, tarragon and butter, and grilled octopus and pork lettuce wraps, conceived to resemble Asian street food. If you’re unfamiliar with octopus, it’s similar in texture to calamari; here, it’s grilled with a nice char and served with Bibb lettuce and assembled with thai basil, mint, cilantro and nuoc cham, a spicy Vietnamese sauce. Additional noteworthy dishes include the yellowfin tuna crudo with harissa aioli, lime and Fresno peppers and the grilled Block Island swordfish, served with farro, charred corn and a smoked tomato vinaigrette that delivers delicious layers of flavor – smoky, creamy, and acidic all at once.
Lure’s beverage program promises something to suit every taste: craft brews, wines by the glass, bottle or on tap, a wide selection of shochu (comparable to saki) and truly inventive cocktails, including communal punch bowls for groups and individually bottled libations carbonated in the restaurant’s in-house bottle shop (try the micha calienta, a lemon-lime soda with jalapeno vodka, orange liqueur, cranberry and Verdejo). If you save room for the dessert, the blueberry crumb cake is my personal recommendation. Its flavors are strong and polarizing – somewhat savory pistachio ice cream, intensely tart blueberry compote and sharp, aged gouda cheese. You’ll either love or hate it, but so many diners fall into the former category that the recipe was featured in Bon Appetit.
Lure’s menu changes seasonally and calls to diners craving fresh coastal flavors this fall like a siren of the sea.
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